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Bites & pieces
The cassoulet at Papillotte

Fall into fall menus

With fall weather comes a change of season — and a change of menus for many area restaurants. Chefs are sourcing fall veggies, look for lots of root veg dishes, savory braised meat dishes and the inclusion of wild game on higher end dining menus.

Soups will get heartier, breads more dense and meals will overall be “winter warmers” as opposed to lighter, summer seafood dishes.

One such dish was the cassoulet I had a few weeks ago at Circa 1875. A Facebook posting last week indicated the little Broughton Street French carry–out, Papillote, was serving cassoulet as a special. I had to check it out.

It was a slightly different expression – and served in an aluminum carryout container, but was insanely delicious and satisfying. Of course, the cassoulet base, a thick, hearty bean stew, was beautifully spiced and textured. House made confit duck and braised lamb shank topped the beans, which also featured big chunks of sausage peeking through a thick layer of toasted bread crumbs.

Cassoulet may be considered a French peasant dish, but  it’s hard to deny it a title befitting more elegant cuisine. My only disappointment was that I was unable to sample a second dish — rabbit with mustard and dried plums.

Other recent specials have included a crayfish sandwich and braised rabbit leg stuffed with mushrooms and served with crispy polenta. Desserts range from petite and light, like macaroons, to heavier but equally decadent treats like brownies or crème brÛlée. Facebook and Twitter followers received notices of special menu items and discounts.

Chef Herve Didailler trained in Europe and has eight Michelin–rated restaurants on his resume. Papillote is a deliciously sublime treat in a world too crowded by less deserving eateries. It is remarkable food that over-delivers for the value.
218 W. Broughton St./232–1881

Geneva Geneva’s is closing

Geneva Geneva’s Home Plate restaurant on Bee Road has closed. Owner Geneva Wade has been in the restaurant business since 1983 and has operated her current location for more than three years.

According to a statement, Wade plans to “look at opportunities in the catering  business and possibly offer her own specialty items directly to consumers.”

It’s a sad day for fried chicken fans — and Geneva’s many friends.

Pizza Pie

Athens–based Your Pie is opening a location in Savannah soon. The website indicates a location near The Lady and Sons, but hears the location may actually be on Broughton in the former A Vida storefront.

Your Pie prepares brick oven pizza using home made doughs, sauces and fresh ingredient. It has three locations in Athens, as well as in Watkinsville and Charleston, SC. Additional franchises are already in the works.